|
|
Cooling
Dec 14, 2014 8:51:46 GMT -5
Post by Paul on Dec 14, 2014 8:51:46 GMT -5
Help needed. As you know, I have a Pinto, and have recently fitted a new alloy radiator. Can anyone tell me how I charge the radiator and cooling system, to stop an air lock I have as a result of fitting the new rad? Thought it was just a case of slowly filling the header tank with the engine running, but seems not, as the radiator stays cold, (so the sender doesn't work, and the fan doesn't cut in). How do I fill and bleed the entire system...I 'm used to a pressurised radiator cap, which isn't present on this.
Practical demonstration ideal, but advice welcome.
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 14, 2014 9:02:24 GMT -5
Post by Paul on Dec 14, 2014 9:02:24 GMT -5
Do I just disconnect the top hose until water comes through? (At the moment, the header tank has a long hose feeding the BOTTOM of the rad....)
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 14, 2014 9:34:25 GMT -5
Post by tiger6trev (T.C) on Dec 14, 2014 9:34:25 GMT -5
Are you at the garage? can't get you on the phone!
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 14, 2014 9:37:02 GMT -5
Post by Paul on Dec 14, 2014 9:37:02 GMT -5
No..back home. Try 01244 380276
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 14, 2014 15:04:42 GMT -5
Post by tonyb on Dec 14, 2014 15:04:42 GMT -5
My rad has a bleed screw on top right hand corner and I also had to lift the header tank slightly to push water through
If you bleed through top hose it still leaves enough air in top tank on rad to stop temp switch working.
Tony
|
|
|
|
Post by chrism on Dec 15, 2014 2:10:05 GMT -5
When I refilled mine I did as Tony suggests and elevated the header tank as far as the connection pipe would allow. I also massaged the pipes around the rad as they got warm to try and force water into the rad (not sure this really worked but it made me feel better!)
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 15, 2014 13:19:51 GMT -5
Post by clive1 on Dec 15, 2014 13:19:51 GMT -5
Hi Paul, did you manage too sort your radiator bleed. Clive.
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 16, 2014 3:50:34 GMT -5
Post by Paul on Dec 16, 2014 3:50:34 GMT -5
Fitted a new fuse...need to fit a new thermostat. That should sort the fan not working.
We shorted it out, and know it works, but found a broken fuse...and the thermo is just double insurance.
I can then run it up to temperature, and try bleeding at the screw at the top of the rad. Doing this Thursday...
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 16, 2014 10:59:11 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by rickwatton on Dec 16, 2014 10:59:11 GMT -5
You can test your stat with a multi meter if you have one give me a bell if you want me to talk you through it, you have my number
Rick
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 19, 2014 7:54:38 GMT -5
Post by Paul on Dec 19, 2014 7:54:38 GMT -5
Fuse changed to get fan working. Bleed screw removed. Engine run, but no water comes through the hole left by removing the bleed screw on the rad. The rad remains cold, top and bottom, so again I turned the engine off as the guage climbed over normal...
So...will change the thermostat on Sunday.
If that doesn't work, I guess it's water pump time...and that's an engine out....as the Coilovers are in the way....
I can't believe I'm having all this trouble just because I changed the rad...it was leaking, but at least all the rest of the cooling system was working...it wasn't actually overheating. Any ideas??
...and I've still yet to fit the f********g pedal box........
Aaaaarrrggggghh"........€^%#*#%^
|
|
tooly
Full Member
Posts: 181
|
Cooling
Dec 19, 2014 8:51:54 GMT -5
Post by tooly on Dec 19, 2014 8:51:54 GMT -5
Hi Paul. Don't know if it's a possible, but if needs water pump is removing nose cone and removing coilover and shock an option rather than engine out?
I can't just picture the access needed on the Pinto so I may be talking crap. Fingers crossed it is just the stat. Could you run it without the stat in just to see if the coolant gets round the system?
Pete
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 19, 2014 11:22:07 GMT -5
Post by tonyb on Dec 19, 2014 11:22:07 GMT -5
As long as the header tank's above the height of the rad you should get water to rad even if pump is buggered.
Always filled mine with engine off and then topped up after it's run.
Tony
|
|
|
|
Post by Paul on Dec 19, 2014 12:59:44 GMT -5
It takes about 3 Ltrs of water...then the header tank is full. I think it needs c 5 ltrs in total, so I assumed the water would get pumped around, and have to top it up, and bleed air out via the bleed screw on the rad.
Bleeding would be done via a bleed screw at the top of tbe rad near the top hose. You can see it on the pic..it's black, top right corner.
The header tank is above the rad..see pic below.
So...if I fill the radiator from the header tank (3 ltrs as above), why does none of it come out when I remove the bleed screw??
The only thing getting hot is the block...and my temper.
I' can access the stat housing, as it's behind the header tank....easy...but the pump is right tight behind the coilovers...which as you say, tony, would come out in preference to removing the engine.
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 19, 2014 13:01:38 GMT -5
Post by Paul on Dec 19, 2014 13:01:38 GMT -5
Bugger it..my photo is over 1meg, so have to find another way to post it....
|
|
|
|
Cooling
Dec 19, 2014 17:36:52 GMT -5
Post by clive1 on Dec 19, 2014 17:36:52 GMT -5
Hi Paul try postimage.org for your pic. On the radiator you have the pipes connected in the right places as it's different from the Tiger rad 8-|Just a thought'
Also if you seal the header bottle with a rag and a piece of pipe in the middle start the engine and blow down the pipe it should help to push the water round, have the bleed screw out when you do this,if you do this for awhile you feel light headed ::)it does work i have done it great feeling.Clive.
|
|
